If you've ever heard Georgian table singing, you'll remember the feeling: three voices weaving a complex harmony, slightly "uneven" to Western ears, that gives you goosebumps. Georgian polyphony is one of the world's oldest and most unusual vocal traditions, and Georgian folk dances are spectacular, powerful and incredibly technical. Here's what to know and where to experience them.
Georgian polyphony
The defining feature of Georgian folk music is polyphony. Most songs are sung in at least three voices:
- top voice (mtkmeli) — carries the melody, often improvising;
- middle voice (modzakhili) — answers and complements;
- bass (bani) — holds the foundation, often sung by a group.
Georgian harmonies don't follow familiar Western rules: there are many dissonances, parallel fifths and unusual intervals. That's why the sound feels both ancient and modern.
In 2001 UNESCO proclaimed Georgian polyphonic singing a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity; it was later added to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage.
"Chakrulo" in space
One of the best-known Georgian songs is the Kakhetian table song "Chakrulo". In 1977 a recording was included on the Voyager Golden Record, humanity's message to extraterrestrial civilisations. Georgian polyphony has literally left the solar system.
Regional styles
Each region sings differently:
- Kakheti — long, slow songs with extended melodic lines, such as "Chakrulo" and "Mravalzhamieri".
- Guria — the most complex polyphony, with virtuoso yodel-like top-voice ornaments called krimanchuli.
- Svaneti — austere, archaic, often ritual songs accompanied by round dances.
- Samegrelo — melodic, lyrical songs.
- Racha, Imereti, Adjara — each with its own traditions and repertoire.
Table songs
At a supra, songs are part of the feast; the tamada's toasts alternate with singing. The most famous table song is "Mravalzhamieri" ("Many years"), sung in honour of the host or guest of honour. Don't be surprised if even young people who listen to modern music know these songs by heart.
Church singing
Georgian church music is polyphonic too. At services in Tbilisi, Mtskheta or monasteries you'll hear choirs singing by ancient rules, with many chants traced to medieval manuscripts.
Folk instruments
- Panduri — a three-string plucked instrument popular in eastern Georgia.
- Chonguri — a four-string instrument from western Georgia with a soft sound.
- Both often accompany singing.
- Salamuri — a wooden flute, one of the oldest instruments.
- Chiboni and gudastviri — Georgian bagpipes; the chiboni is typical of Adjara, the gudastviri of Racha and eastern Georgia.
- Doli — a drum that sets the rhythm for dances.
- Chuniri — a bowed instrument typical of Svaneti.
- Changi — the Svan harp.
Folk dances
Georgian dances are unforgettable. Men dance on their toes without pointe shoes, performing jumps, spins and complex moves on their knees, while women move smoothly, as if gliding across the stage.
The best-known dances:
- Kartuli — a romantic, restrained couple's dance. The man never touches the woman, expressing respect and admiration.
- Khorumi — a warrior dance from Adjara depicting preparation for battle.
- Khevsuruli — a mountain dance with swords and shields portraying combat.
- Acharuli — a cheerful, flirtatious dance from Adjara with bright costumes.
- Simdi — a smooth, solemn dance inspired by Ossetian traditions.
- Kazbeguri — a dynamic, demanding dance of the Kazbegi highlanders.
- Partsa — a festive Gurian dance built on competition between dancers.
The Sukhishvili ensemble
The Georgian National Ballet "Sukhishvili", founded in 1945, is the country's most famous folk dance company and has toured the world. If you're in Tbilisi, check the listings — seeing Sukhishvili live is one of the strongest experiences of a trip.
The Erisioni ensemble is also well known, along with many professional and amateur groups.
Polyphonic ensembles
Notable groups include the Rustavi ensemble, performing since the 1960s, and dozens of young groups reviving regional styles. Tbilisi often hosts polyphony concerts in small halls and churches.
Where to hear and see it
- Concerts in Tbilisi. Watch the listings of concert halls and theatres: dance and polyphony ensembles perform regularly, especially in the tourist season.
- Restaurants with live music. Many traditional restaurants have evening programmes of folk singing and dancing. Quality varies — choose places with professional ensembles.
- Festivals. Summer and autumn bring folk festivals, with plenty of performances at Tbilisoba and on Independence Day, 26 May.
- A supra at a guesthouse. The most authentic experience is hearing singing at an ordinary village table. In Kakheti, Guria or Svaneti hosts often sing for guests.
- Church. A Sunday service is a free chance to hear ancient church polyphony.
Etiquette at performances
- Photograph without flash at concerts.
- In restaurants, clapping along is welcome.
- If you're invited to dance, don't be shy — Georgians love it when guests try.
- At a supra, when "Mravalzhamieri" is sung, raise your glass with everyone.
In short
Georgian polyphony is a unique tradition recognised by UNESCO and even sent into space, and Georgian folk dances are spectacular and meaningful. See Sukhishvili or a polyphony ensemble in Tbilisi, listen to a Sunday service and try to join a village supra — that's where you'll hear how Georgia really sings.