Southern Georgia surprises those used to green gorges and vineyards. The Javakheti plateau is a high volcanic tableland at around 1,700–2,100 m, with endless steppe meadows, cold winds and dozens of lakes. The landscapes feel more like Mongolia or Iceland than typical Georgia. It's a place for lovers of open space, silence, birds and unusual routes.
The main lakes
Paravani
Paravani is Georgia's largest lake (about 37 km²), lying at around 2,070 m. It's surrounded by gentle hills and the volcanic peaks of the Samsari range. The lake is rich in fish and freezes completely in winter, when locals fish through holes in the ice.
On the northern shore, in the village of Poka, stands Saint Nino's convent. According to tradition, Saint Nino entered Georgia through this area. The nuns are known for their farm: they make cheeses, jams and natural cosmetics, sold in a small shop at the convent.
Tabatskuri
Tabatskuri is a picturesque lake ringed by mountains, closer to the Borjomi-Bakuriani area. You can see it on the mountain road from Bakuriani to Javakheti (unpaved and not suitable for all cars).
Khanchali
Khanchali is a shallow lake with marshy shores and an important bird breeding site, part of Javakheti National Park.
Madatapa
Madatapa is another lake within the national park, well known to birdwatchers. In spring and summer it hosts many waterbirds.
Bughdasheni and Kartsakhi
- Bughdasheni — a small lake within the national park.
- Kartsakhi — a lake on the border with Turkey. Part of it belongs to the neighbouring country, so follow border-zone rules.
Javakheti National Park
Javakheti National Park was created in 2011 to protect wetlands and birds. It includes several lakes and surrounding land. The visitor centre has information on routes and rules.
Birds
Javakheti is one of Georgia's best birdwatching areas:
- pelicans (Dalmatian and great white) during migration;
- cranes — on passage and breeding;
- Armenian gull — breeds on the lakes;
- terns, ducks, grebes and herons;
- raptors over the steppe.
The best times are spring and early summer (breeding) and autumn (migration).
People and culture
Javakheti is a multi-ethnic region. Most of the population is Armenian, so there are many Armenian churches and a distinct cuisine. In Gorelovka and neighbouring villages live Doukhobors, descendants of 19th-century Russian religious settlers who preserve their way of life and traditions, though their numbers have fallen sharply.
The main towns are Ninotsminda and Akhalkalaki.
Climate
- Summer is short and cool: pleasant by day, cold at night.
- Winter is harsh and snowy, with frosts that can drop below −20 °C — one of Georgia's coldest places.
- Wind is a frequent visitor on the plateau.
Bring a warm jacket even in summer.
Getting there
- From Tbilisi — via Tsalka and Tetritskaro (about 3–4 hours) or via Akhaltsikhe and Akhalkalaki.
- From Borjomi/Bakuriani — over the pass to Tabatskuri (unpaved, best by 4x4).
- From Vardzia/Akhaltsikhe — via Akhalkalaki.
Public transport runs between Tbilisi and Akhalkalaki/Ninotsminda, but a car is far more convenient for the lakes.
Combining it with a trip
A 2-day route:
- Tbilisi → Tsalka (Dashbashi Canyon) → Paravani → Poka convent → Ninotsminda (overnight).
- Ninotsminda → Khanchali and Madatapa lakes → Akhalkalaki → Vardzia → Akhaltsikhe (Rabati).
From Borjomi:
Borjomi → Bakuriani → Tabatskuri → Paravani → Akhalkalaki → Vardzia.
Where to stay and eat
- Guesthouses in Ninotsminda, Akhalkalaki and lakeside villages — simple but hospitable.
- Try local lake fish, cheeses (including from the Poka convent) and Armenian dishes.
- Village shops are few — stock up in towns.
Tips
- Warm clothing is essential in any season.
- Binoculars for the birds.
- Fuel — fill up in towns; there are few petrol stations on the plateau.
- Border zone — near the Turkish and Armenian borders documents may be checked, so carry your passport.
- The sun is strong at altitude — sunscreen and sunglasses.
In short
Javakheti means high-altitude lakes, endless steppe and silence. See Georgia's largest lake, Paravani, visit Saint Nino's convent at Poka, watch pelicans and cranes at Khanchali and Madatapa and continue on to the cave monastery of Vardzia. It's a completely different Georgia — austere, spacious and very beautiful.
