Many people think spring and autumn are the best times for Georgia. But winter is lovely too: the mountains are covered in snow, Tbilisi smells of tangerines and churchkhela, the ski lifts are running, and accommodation and flights are cheaper than in high season. Here's what to do in Georgia from December to March and how to prepare.
Winter weather
Georgia is small, but the climate varies a lot by region:
- Tbilisi — mild winters: usually around 0 to +8 °C by day; snow is infrequent and melts fast.
- Kakheti — similar to Tbilisi, sometimes colder.
- Batumi and the coast — warm for winter (often +5 to +12 °C) but rainy.
- Mountains (Gudauri, Kazbegi, Svaneti, Bakuriani) — real winter with snow, frost and wind.
- Javakheti — one of the country's coldest places, with frosts below −20 °C.
Skiing
Winter is high season for Georgia's ski resorts:
- Gudauri — the most popular, with long runs, freeride and heli-skiing.
- Bakuriani — a family resort near Borjomi.
- Mestia (Hatsvali, Tetnuldi) — Svaneti's mountains with superb views.
- Goderdzi — a resort in mountainous Adjara with plenty of snow.
The season usually runs from December to late March, depending on snow. See our separate article on ski resorts for details.
Snowy Kazbegi
Stepantsminda in winter is magical: snowy slopes and Gergeti church against a white Kazbek. You can walk up to Gergeti in winter (good boots needed) or go by 4x4 if the road allows.
Important: the Georgian Military Road over the Jvari Pass periodically closes in winter due to snowfall and avalanche risk. Follow news and forecasts.
New Year and Christmas in Tbilisi
- New Year Tbilisi is decorated with lights, with fairs on Rustaveli Avenue and in the squares.
- 31 December brings fireworks over the city and celebrations in every home. If you're invited to a New Year supra, you'll taste satsivi, gozinaki and churchkhela and hear toasts until morning.
- 7 January is Orthodox Christmas. During the day the Alilo procession with carols passes through the streets.
- Old New Year (13–14 January) is also celebrated.
Sulphur baths and hot springs
What could be better on a cold day than hot water?
- Abanotubani sulphur baths in Tbilisi — private rooms or public halls.
- Borjomi's sulphur pools — warm open-air water surrounded by snow.
- Tskaltubo — radon baths.
Wine in winter
Winter is a quiet time at wineries, as the new vintage matures in qvevri. Many Kakhetian maranis welcome guests in winter too, with tastings by the fire and no crowds. Tbilisi wine bars are cosy, and mulled wine is sold at the New Year fairs.
Winter Batumi
Batumi is quiet in winter: the beach season is over and many beach venues close. But:
- accommodation is much cheaper;
- the seafront and boulevard are still beautiful;
- restaurants, museums and the botanical garden stay open;
- Goderdzi is nearby for skiing.
Expect rain and wind.
Winter food
Georgian food is especially hearty in winter:
- khinkali and khachapuri — any time;
- ojakhuri — fried meat with potatoes;
- kharcho and chikhirtma — hot soups;
- lobio in a clay pot with mchadi;
- tangerines from Adjara and Guria — in season;
- churchkhela and gozinaki — for New Year.
Roads and transport
- Georgian Military Road — may close; chains are sometimes required.
- Road to Mestia — open, but can be difficult after snowfall.
- Tusheti — the road over the Abano Pass is closed from autumn to summer.
- Gombori Pass (Tbilisi–Telavi) — can close; detour via Sagarejo.
- Rental cars — check for winter tyres and chains.
- Trains and minibuses run year-round.
Heating and accommodation
- Old buildings in Tbilisi can be chilly in winter. Ask about heating when booking.
- Mountain guesthouses are usually warm, with stoves or central heating.
- Prices (outside New Year and ski resorts) are lower than in summer.
What to pack
- A warm jacket, hat, gloves and scarf.
- Waterproof shoes with good grip — Tbilisi's streets can be slippery, and there's snow in the mountains.
- Thermal layers for the mountains.
- Sunglasses and sunscreen — snow reflects strong mountain sun.
- An umbrella for Batumi.
Pros and cons of a winter trip
Pros:
- snow and skiing;
- New Year atmosphere;
- fewer tourists in Tbilisi and Kakheti;
- lower accommodation prices (except resorts and holidays).
Cons:
- short daylight hours;
- possible mountain road closures;
- some places inaccessible (Tusheti, parts of Khevsureti);
- grey weather on the coast.
A one-week winter route
- Tbilisi (2 days) — old town, sulphur baths, museums, wine bars.
- Kazbegi (1–2 days) — if the road is open; Gergeti in the snow.
- Gudauri (2 days) — skiing or walks.
- Kakheti (1 day) — Sighnaghi, maranis, tastings by the fire.
Or: Tbilisi → Borjomi → Bakuriani — springs and family skiing.
In short
Winter Georgia means snow on Kazbek, skiing in Gudauri, Bakuriani and Svaneti, festive Tbilisi with Alilo, sulphur baths and Borjomi's warm pools, and wine tastings by the fire. Keep an eye on mountain roads, dress warmly and book New Year accommodation early — and you'll discover a completely different, cosy and snowy Georgia.
