Khevsureti is a mountain region in north-east Georgia, right by the main Caucasus ridge. For a long time it was one of the country's most isolated places: in winter snow buries the roads, and in summer the only way in is over a high pass. That's why stone fortress-villages, ancient traditions and the distinctive way of life of the Khevsurs survive here best. If you want to see a completely different Georgia — stern, silent and majestic — go to Khevsureti.

About the Khevsurs

For centuries the Khevsurs lived in the mountains guarding the country's northern borders. They were known for their warrior culture, their own laws and customs, and colourful clothing embroidered with crosses and patterns. Local shrines — khati (jvari) — are still revered, with festivals of beer, offerings and songs. Many villages empty in winter, but families return in summer and guesthouses welcome visitors.

Shatili

Shatili is the jewel of Khevsureti: a medieval fortress-village of dozens of stone towers and houses packed tightly together and linked by passages. From afar it looks like a single stone castle on the Arghuni river. Shatili was the last outpost before the northern mountains and was defended as one unit.

Some houses have been restored as guesthouses, and small cafés have appeared. Wander the narrow stone passages, climb to viewpoints above the village and watch the light on the walls at sunset.

Mutso

Mutso is an abandoned fortress-village perched on a steep rocky ridge about 12 km from Shatili. Towers and houses cling to an almost sheer cliff, reached by a steep path. Some buildings have been restored, and the climb to the top rewards you with stunning views of the Ardoti gorge. Allow about an hour up; you need good shoes and a head for heights.

The Anatori crypts

On the road between Shatili and Mutso, on a slope above the river, stand the Anatori crypts — small stone burial houses. Local tradition says that during a plague epidemic villagers withdrew into these crypts so as not to infect others and stayed there to the end. Remains are still visible inside. It's a quiet, sad place — be respectful.

Getting there

The road to Khevsureti leaves the Georgian Military Road near Zhinvali, follows the Pshavi Aragvi valley past Barisakho and climbs to the Datvisjvari Pass (about 2,700 m). The descent from the pass leads to Shatili.

  • Travel time: about 4–5 hours from Tbilisi.
  • Road conditions: part of the way is gravel with switchbacks, especially on the pass. You need a 4×4 or a very experienced driver.
  • Road season: the pass is usually open from about June to October; snow closes it otherwise, depending on the weather.
  • Public transport: a minibus sometimes runs from Tbilisi to Shatili in summer, but rarely — check in advance. Hiring a driver for 2–3 days is more reliable.

Where to stay

Shatili and nearby villages have guesthouses in old towers and simple houses — modest, with home cooking and amazing views. Places fill up in season, so book ahead. You can also stay in Barisakho or camp.

Rules and customs

  • Shrines (khati). Many Khevsur holy places are closed to women and sometimes to outsiders. Never enter fenced shrines, touch objects or photograph rituals without permission.
  • Hospitality. Khevsurs are very hospitable but value restraint and respect.
  • Border zone. Shatili is close to the border with Russia (Chechnya). Documents may be checked on the road — carry your passport.
  • Rubbish. Take all your rubbish with you; there's no collection in the mountains.

Hiking

Khevsureti is great for trekking:

  • Shatili to Mutso on foot along the valley;
  • the Roshka – Abudelauri lakes – Chaukhi Pass – Juta crossing into Kazbegi;
  • a multi-day crossing to Tusheti over the Atsunta Pass — experienced hikers with a guide only.

Festivals

Summer brings local shrine festivals, including Atengenoba in July — a chance to see traditional songs and rites. But remember you're a guest, and not all rituals are meant for outsiders.

When to go

July–September is best: the road is open, the weather more stable and the meadows green. Snow is possible on the pass in June and October, and the region is virtually inaccessible in winter.

What to bring

  • warm clothes even in summer — mountain nights are cold;
  • a rain jacket;
  • cash — there are no ATMs;
  • food for the road;
  • your passport;
  • a first-aid kit and motion-sickness tablets for the switchbacks.

In short

Khevsureti means the stone towers of Shatili, the cliff fortress of Mutso, the silence of the Anatori crypts and an unforgettable drive over the Datvisjvari Pass. Come in summer, hire a reliable driver and respect local shrines, and you'll see a Georgia missing from most guidebooks.