At the far eastern end of Kakheti, where the Alazani Valley meets the Greater Caucasus, lies Lagodekhi National Park. It is Georgia's oldest protected area and one of the oldest in the Caucasus — a reserve was created here in the early 20th century. Dense relict forests, mountain rivers, waterfalls and high meadows make Lagodekhi ideal for hiking, from easy walks to a serious multi-day trek to a glacial lake.

Why Lagodekhi

  • Nature without crowds — far fewer visitors than Kazbegi or Svaneti.
  • Forests of beech, hornbeam and oak, some trees centuries old.
  • Wildlife — red deer, tur, bears, lynx and many birds. Big animals are hard to spot, but tracks are common.
  • Variety of routes — from a two-hour stroll to a three-day trek.

Registration

Before setting out, register at the park's visitor centre in Lagodekhi town, where you'll get a map and news about trail conditions and weather. Registration is mandatory for multi-day routes, and some trails need a passport as they run close to the border.

Trails

Ninoskhevi waterfall

  • Distance: about 8–9 km return.
  • Time: 4–5 hours.
  • Difficulty: moderate.

The most popular route. The path follows a river through the forest, crosses streams on stones and logs several times, and reaches a beautiful waterfall in a narrow gorge. The last stretch needs care, with some walking on rocks in the riverbed; it's slippery after rain.

Grouse waterfall

  • Distance: about 6–7 km return.
  • Time: 3–4 hours.
  • Difficulty: easy to moderate.

Another forest walk to a waterfall, good if you want to avoid big climbs.

Machi fortress

  • Distance: about 7 km return.
  • Time: 3–4 hours.
  • Difficulty: moderate.

The trail climbs through forest to the ruins of medieval Machi fortress on a ridge, with views over the Alazani Valley — a nice mix of history and nature.

Black Rock Lake (Shavi Klde)

  • Distance: about 40 km return.
  • Time: 3 days.
  • Difficulty: hard.
  • Lake altitude: about 2,800 m.

The park's main multi-day trek climbs from the forest through alpine meadows to glacial Black Rock Lake right on the border with Russia (Dagestan). People usually sleep in a ranger hut or a tent. The lake is frozen much of the year, and the view from the ridge is among the wildest in the Caucasus.

Important: the route opens only in summer, usually July to September. You need experience, good fitness, warm gear and mandatory registration. Carry your passport — border guards may check documents.

Getting there

  • From Tbilisi to Lagodekhi — about 3 hours by car; minibuses leave from Samgori bus station.
  • From Sighnaghi or Telavi — about 1–1.5 hours.
  • The visitor centre is in town, within walking distance of the trailheads.
  • The border with Azerbaijan (Lagodekhi crossing) is nearby, so the park pairs well with a trip to Azerbaijan.

Where to stay

Lagodekhi town and its surroundings have guesthouses and small hotels; inside the park there are campsites and ranger shelters for multi-day routes. Prices are lower than in tourist hotspots.

When to go

  • Spring (April–June) — waterfalls at their fullest, fresh green forest.
  • Summer — hot in the valley, pleasant in the forest; Black Rock Lake season.
  • Autumn — colourful forests, one of the best times for photos.
  • Winter — lower trails accessible, upper ones snowbound.

What to bring

  • hiking boots with good grip — the forest is damp and slippery;
  • a rain jacket;
  • water and food — there are no cafés on the trails;
  • insect and tick repellent — check yourself after walks;
  • your passport for border-area routes;
  • for Black Rock Lake — tent or sleeping bag, warm clothes and a stove.

Safety

  • Tell rangers your route and expected return time.
  • Don't cross rivers in high water after rain.
  • Bears live in the park — make noise on the trail and keep food sealed.
  • Don't stray towards the border and follow border guards' instructions.

Combine with Kakheti

Lagodekhi fits easily into a wine route: a day in the park, then Sighnaghi, Telavi and the wineries of the Alazani Valley. After a long forest walk, a glass of Kakhetian wine tastes even better.

In short

Lagodekhi means ancient forest, waterfalls in gorges, the ruins of Machi fortress and, for the bold, glacial Black Rock Lake right on the border. Register at the visitor centre, pick a route that suits you and enjoy the Caucasus without the crowds.