If you think Georgia is all green mountains and vineyards, go to David Gareja. In the country's southeast the semi-desert begins: sun-scorched hills, striped pink and orange slopes, silence and wind. Dozens of cave cells, churches and refectories are carved into the cliffs, and medieval frescoes survive on their walls. It is one of the most unusual and atmospheric places in Georgia.

History

The monastery was founded in the 6th century by David Garejeli, one of the thirteen Assyrian Fathers who came to Georgia to preach Christianity. He settled in a cave in the desert mountains of Gareja, and a monastic community grew around him. Over the centuries about twenty monasteries appeared, and the complex became a major centre of religious life, learning and art.

Its golden age was the 10th–13th centuries, when the finest frescoes were painted. Later the monasteries suffered raids, and in Soviet times the area was even used for military exercises. Today part of the complex is active again, with monks living in the Lavra.

What to see

The Lavra of Saint David

The Lavra is the main working monastery at the foot of the cliffs, with Saint David's tomb, churches, cells and the spring known as "David's Tears". The grounds are well kept, with stairs and terraces, and pilgrims come here.

Udabno and its frescoes

Above the Lavra a trail runs along the ridge to Udabno ("desert") monastery, the goal for most visitors. Dozens of caves are carved into the far side of the ridge, many decorated with 11th–13th-century frescoes: Gospel scenes, saints and portraits of Queen Tamar and other rulers. In places the colours are remarkably bright.

The view into Azerbaijan

From the crest you look over the endless steppes of Azerbaijan — the border runs right along the ridge. On a clear day it's an impressive panorama.

The trail: what to know

  • Length and time. The loop from the Lavra over the ridge to Udabno and back takes 1.5–2.5 hours. The start is steep, then the path follows the ridge.
  • The border. Some Udabno caves lie right at the border with Azerbaijan, whose exact line is disputed between the two countries. You may meet border guards on the crest. Stay calm, don't cross marked lines and follow their instructions.
  • Snakes. In warm months the area has snakes, including venomous ones. Watch your step and avoid tall grass and gaps between rocks.
  • Heat. Summer is very hot with almost no shade. Start in the morning and carry at least 1.5 litres of water per person, a hat and sunscreen.
  • Footwear. Wear sturdy closed shoes; the path is rocky and loose in places.

Getting there

David Gareja is about 70 km from Tbilisi, but the drive takes 2–2.5 hours.

  • By car or taxi. The last stretch can be rough. Hiring a driver for the day is easiest.
  • Tourist shuttle. In season a tourist minibus runs from Tbilisi; check the schedule in advance.
  • Tour. Many tours combine David Gareja with Sighnaghi — logical, though it makes a long day.

There is no regular public transport to the monastery.

Dress code

It's a working monastery:

  • women — skirt below the knee and a headscarf;
  • men — long trousers;
  • shoulders covered for everyone.

Long clothes can be hot on the trail to Udabno, so choose light fabrics.

When to go

  • Spring (April–May) — the best time: the steppe turns green, poppies bloom and it isn't hot.
  • Autumn (September–October) — warm and dry, with soft light for photos.
  • Summer — very hot; early morning only.
  • Winter — can be cold and windy, sometimes with snow, but almost no tourists.

Food

There is no café at the monastery or the choice is very limited, so bring water and food. On the way, the village of Udabno has a few small cafés and guesthouses for lunch.

The coloured hills

On the way you'll pass striped hills of pink, red, yellow and white clay, especially beautiful in soft morning or evening light. Many photographers come just for them.

How much time

A full day including travel: about five hours on the road there and back and two to three hours on site. If you add Sighnaghi, leave early.

In short

David Gareja is another Georgia — empty, quiet and ancient. Come in spring or autumn, start the trail in the morning, bring water and a hat, watch your step, and you'll see frescoes nearly a thousand years old with a view over the steppes of Azerbaijan.