Georgia is usually imagined with green mountains, glaciers and vineyards. But in the far south-east, beyond Dedoplistskaro, lies a completely different world — Vashlovani: semi-desert plains, clay canyons, mud volcanoes and endless horizons. The landscapes recall America's Wild West. It's one of Georgia's wildest and least-visited places.
What Vashlovani is
The Vashlovani Protected Areas comprise a strict nature reserve and a national park in Dedoplistskaro municipality in Kakheti, on the border with Azerbaijan. They protect ecosystems unique in Georgia — semi-desert, steppe and open pistachio and juniper woodland.
The name is linked to "vashli" (apple) — legend says wild apple trees once grew here.
What to see
Badlands and canyons
Vashlovani's signature sight is its badlands: erosion-carved clay hills and gullies in many shades, turning gold and pink at sunset.
Eagle Gorge
Eagle Gorge is a sheer-walled canyon where birds of prey nest — a good short walk and birdwatching spot.
The Takhti-Tepa mud volcanoes
Takhti-Tepa is a field of mud volcanoes: small cones slowly oozing mud and gas. An unusual, slightly otherworldly sight.
Mijniskure
Mijniskure is a scenic spot on the Alazani River at the Azerbaijani border, with floodplain forest — green against the semi-desert — and cottages for overnight stays. This is a border area, so follow the rules and expect document checks.
Pantishara
Pantishara Gorge is a canyon with striking rock formations, another popular 4x4 route.
Wildlife and birds
Vashlovani is one of Georgia's richest wildlife areas:
- wolves, jackals, foxes and brown bears in the floodplain forests;
- goitered gazelles, being returned to Vashlovani through a reintroduction programme;
- in the 2000s camera traps recorded the Persian leopard here — one of the Caucasus's rarest animals;
- raptors: griffon vulture, cinereous vulture, Egyptian vulture and eagles;
- tortoises, lizards and snakes — watch your step in summer.
Getting there
- Tbilisi → Dedoplistskaro — about 2.5–3 hours by car or minibus.
- Dedoplistskaro has the protected areas' visitor centre, where you must register, get route information and pay for services (accommodation, guide, transport).
- From there it's 4x4 only: park roads are unpaved and sometimes difficult, especially after rain. You can hire a 4x4 with driver through the visitor centre or local guides.
Important: don't head into Vashlovani in an ordinary car or without telling the visitor centre — the area is huge, there may be no phone signal and there are no settlements inside.
Where to stay
- Cottages and campsites in the park, booked through the visitor centre.
- Guesthouses in Dedoplistskaro, a base for day trips.
When to go
- Spring (April–May) — the best time: greenery, blossom and comfortable temperatures.
- Autumn (September–October) — mild weather and golden colours.
- Summer — very hot, often above 35 °C. If you go in summer, travel only early and late, with plenty of water.
- Winter — cool, and roads can become impassable after rain.
What to bring
- Lots of water — there are almost no springs in the park;
- food for the whole day;
- a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses;
- closed shoes — snakes and thorny plants;
- binoculars for birds and animals;
- your passport for the border zone;
- a first-aid kit and charged phone (no signal in places).
A 1–2 day route
Day 1: Tbilisi → Dedoplistskaro (visitor centre) → badlands → Eagle Gorge → sunset at a viewpoint → overnight in a cottage or Dedoplistskaro.
Day 2: the Takhti-Tepa mud volcanoes → Mijniskure on the Alazani → return, stopping at Sighnaghi or Kakhetian wineries on the way back.
Nearby
- Khornabuji Fortress above Dedoplistskaro.
- The Shiraki steppe — vast pastures and hills north of Vashlovani.
- Chachuna — a managed reserve with floodplain forest on the Iori River.
- Sighnaghi and Bodbe — on the way from Tbilisi.
Tips
- Register at the visitor centre — it matters for your safety.
- Don't leave marked routes without a guide.
- Don't light fires outside permitted areas — fire risk is high in dry seasons.
- Respect the border zone — don't photograph border facilities.
- Take your rubbish with you.
In short
Vashlovani is Georgia's "Wild West": semi-desert, multicoloured clay canyons, mud volcanoes, the Alazani River at the border and rare wildlife. Register at the Dedoplistskaro visitor centre, take a 4x4, water and binoculars, choose spring or autumn — and you'll see a Georgia few people know.
