To see what Tbilisi (then Tiflis) was like at the turn of the 20th century, head to Sololaki. This district at the foot of Mount Mtatsminda is lined with the mansions of merchants and industrialists, and behind unremarkable doors lie real treasures — entrance halls with painted ceilings, stained glass, mosaics and wrought-iron staircases. Here's what to see and how to behave when entering residential buildings.

A little history

The name Sololaki is linked to an Arabic word for an irrigation channel — water was once piped through here to the gardens. In the 19th century, when Tiflis became the administrative centre of the Caucasus within the Russian Empire, wealthy Armenian, Georgian, German and other merchants began building apartment houses and mansions here.

Architects — local and from Europe — worked in eclectic, neo-Renaissance and neo-Gothic styles, and from the early 20th century in Art Nouveau. That's why Sololaki is so varied: one street can show façades from very different eras and tastes.

What Tbilisi entrance halls are

An entrance hall (sadarbazo) is the entry area of an apartment building. In Sololaki's wealthy houses they were designed as the owner's calling card:

  • painted ceilings and walls — floral ornaments, landscapes and mythological scenes;
  • stained glass in windows and doors;
  • mosaic and tiled floors, sometimes with the year of construction or the owner's initials;
  • cast-iron and wooden staircases with carved banisters;
  • stucco and mirrors.

Many halls have suffered from age: paint is peeling and stained glass broken. Even so, they're impressive. Some have been restored, sometimes by residents, volunteers and foundations.

The Writers' House (Sarajishvili mansion)

One of Sololaki's best-known buildings is the mansion of David Sarajishvili, founder of Georgian brandy production. Built in the Art Nouveau style in the early 20th century, it now houses the Writers' House of Georgia — a cultural centre with exhibitions, literary evenings, a garden and a café.

Look out for:

  • Art Nouveau stained glass and ceramic cladding;
  • the staircase and interiors;
  • the garden, which hosts events in summer.

Other places for Tbilisi Art Nouveau

You'll find Art Nouveau and eclectic architecture beyond Sololaki too:

  • Rustaveli Avenue — historic theatres, hotels and museums;
  • Mtatsminda — streets on the mountain's slope;
  • Chugureti and Aghmashenebeli Avenue — restored 19th-century houses on the left bank;
  • Vera — a quiet district of mansions and trees.

Etiquette: visiting entrance halls

Remember that entrance halls are not museums but the entrances to people's homes. Be considerate:

  • Keep quiet and don't linger in large groups.
  • Don't enter flats or go upstairs uninvited.
  • Don't block residents' way.
  • Ask permission to photograph if you meet residents.
  • If the door is locked, don't force it or ring every bell.
  • Don't touch anything or pick at the paint — the murals are fragile.
  • Some residents put out donation boxes for restoration — a small contribution helps preserve the beauty.

Tours

The best way to see the entrance halls is on a walking tour with a guide specialising in old Tbilisi architecture. Guides know which halls are open, arrange access with residents and tell the stories of the houses and their owners.

Walking route (2–3 hours)

  1. Start at Freedom Square.
  2. Climb into Sololaki via Leonidze and Galaktion Tabidze streets.
  3. Wander along Machabeli, Lermontov, Asatiani and Shalva Dadiani streets, rich in mansions and interesting entrances.
  4. Drop into the Writers' House on Machabeli Street.
  5. Climb up to the Botanical Garden or Narikala for city views.
  6. Descend to Abanotubani and the sulphur baths.

Tip: Sololaki's streets are hilly — wear comfortable shoes.

Cafés and wine in Sololaki

Sololaki is one of the best districts for coffee and wine, with plenty of small cafés, wine bars and restaurants in old houses and half-basements. It's a great idea to end your walk with a glass of amber wine.

Photography

  • The best time is daytime, when light pours through the stained glass.
  • Use a wide-angle lens for the ceilings.
  • No flash — it distorts the mural colours and may annoy residents.

In short

Sololaki is the Tiflis of the 19th and early 20th centuries: merchants' mansions, Art Nouveau, eclecticism and famous entrance halls with painted ceilings, stained glass and cast-iron staircases. Stroll Machabeli, Lermontov and Asatiani streets, visit the Writers' House and respect the residents — and you'll see Tbilisi's most refined and romantic side.