Tbilisi literally grew out of hot springs: the city's name comes from the Georgian word "tbili", meaning warm. Legend says King Vakhtang Gorgasali was hunting when his falcon chased a pheasant and both birds fell into a hot spring. The king was so impressed by the warm water that he decided to found a city here. Today the spot is Abanotubani, a quarter of sulfur baths with brick domes, and a visit to the baths is one of Tbilisi's essential rituals.
What Abanotubani is
Abanotubani is a district of the Old Town below Narikala fortress, next to the mosque and the Leghvtakhevi gorge. Most baths are underground; only low brick domes with little windows show above, releasing steam and the distinctive smell of sulfur. Hot mineral water flows straight from natural springs at around 38–40°C.
Many baths have operated for centuries, visited by kings, ordinary townspeople and famous travellers who left glowing reviews.
Types of baths
Public halls
Separate for men and women, with a shared sulfur pool. The cheapest option; people usually bathe naked, so choose a private room if you're shy.
Private rooms
The most popular choice for visitors. You book a room for an hour or more for yourself or a group. Inside you'll usually find:
- a hot sulfur pool;
- a cold shower or plunge pool;
- sometimes a sauna or steam room;
- a rest room with tea.
Rooms range from simple to luxurious, with mosaics, domes and marble pools; price depends on size and décor.
Best-known baths
- Orbeliani (the "Colourful Bath", Chreli Abano) — with a façade of blue oriental-style mosaic, the most photographed bath in Tbilisi.
- The Royal Bath and other historic domed baths with period interiors.
- Modern spa complexes with sulfur water, pools and massage also exist.
Kisi — the Georgian scrub
The key bath ritual is kisi. A bath attendant (mekise) scrubs you with a coarse mitt to remove the top layer of skin, then gives a soapy foam massage. Your skin will feel amazingly soft. It takes 10–20 minutes and costs extra. Ask for it gentler if you like — by default they scrub vigorously!
Prices
Roughly:
- public hall — from 10–20 lari per person;
- private room — 50 to 200+ lari per hour per room, depending on size and bath;
- kisi — 20–40 lari;
- massage — from 40 lari.
Prices change and may be higher in evenings and at weekends. Check in advance and ask what's included (towels, slippers, tea).
Booking
Book private rooms ahead by phone, messenger or online; evenings and weekends can be full. If you go on impulse, try a weekday afternoon.
How to bathe
- Don't stay in the hot water too long — 10–15 minutes, then a break.
- Alternate hot and cold water.
- Drink water or tea; sulfur water and heat dehydrate you.
- Don't eat a heavy meal beforehand or drink alcohol before or during.
- Remove silver jewellery — sulfur can tarnish it.
- The sulfur smell lingers on skin and hair for a while — that's normal.
Who should avoid them
Sulfur baths may not be suitable for people with heart conditions, high blood pressure, pregnancy, skin conditions and some other issues. If in doubt, consult a doctor.
What to bring
- flip-flops (often provided);
- a swimsuit — optional in public halls, up to you in private rooms;
- a hair tie;
- water;
- cash — some baths don't take cards.
Nearby
After the baths, explore the Old Town:
- Leghvtakhevi waterfall in the gorge right behind the baths;
- Narikala fortress, on foot or by cable car;
- the mosque and old streets of Abanotubani;
- Meidan and the Bridge of Peace.
When to go
The baths are open all year, many until late and some around the clock. They're especially lovely in winter or after a long day of sightseeing; in summer choose the evening.
In short
The sulfur baths are Tbilisi's history you can feel on your skin. Book a private room in one of Abanotubani's old baths, order a kisi, alternate hot and cold — and step out into the evening streets of the Old Town feeling brand new.
