Badrijani nigvzit — "aubergines with walnuts" — is one of Georgia's most popular cold starters. Thin slices of fried aubergine are rolled around a spiced walnut paste and topped with pomegranate seeds. The dish looks festive, uses simple ingredients and suits fasting and vegetarian tables. In any Georgian restaurant it's ordered almost as often as khachapuri.

Why it's so loved

Aubergines grow everywhere in Georgia and are very cheap in summer and autumn. Walnut paste is a universal base of Georgian cooking, used in pkhali, satsivi and lobio. In badrijani the two make a perfect contrast: soft, slightly sweet aubergine and a dense, spicy, garlicky filling.

Ingredients (4–6 servings, about 20 rolls)

For the aubergines

  • medium, long aubergines — 3–4;
  • salt;
  • vegetable oil for frying.

For the walnut filling

  • walnuts — 250 g;
  • garlic — 3–4 cloves;
  • coriander leaves — 1 bunch;
  • ground coriander seed — 1 tsp;
  • utskho suneli — 1/2 tsp;
  • khmeli suneli — 1/2 tsp;
  • dried marigold (Imeretian saffron) — 1/2 tsp (optional);
  • chilli — to taste;
  • wine vinegar — 1–2 tbsp;
  • water — 3–5 tbsp;
  • salt.

To serve

  • pomegranate seeds;
  • coriander or basil.

Method

1. Choose the aubergines

Long, straight aubergines of medium thickness with thin skin and few seeds work best. Very large, mature ones can be bitter.

2. Slice and salt

Trim the stems and slice the aubergines lengthwise into 5–7 mm slices. Sprinkle with salt and leave 20–30 minutes. The juices that come out remove bitterness and reduce how much oil the aubergine absorbs. Pat the slices dry with paper towels.

3. Fry

Heat a pan with a little oil and fry the slices on both sides until golden and soft, 2–3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.

Lower-oil option: brush the slices with oil and bake at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes, turning once, or use a griddle pan.

Let the aubergines cool completely.

4. Make the walnut paste

Grind the walnuts with the garlic in a blender or meat grinder until smooth. Add the chopped coriander, ground coriander, utskho suneli, khmeli suneli, marigold, chilli, salt and vinegar. Mix, adding water a spoonful at a time, until you have a thick, spreadable paste.

Taste it — it should be rich, clearly garlicky, with a little tang.

5. Roll up

Lay out an aubergine slice, spread 1 teaspoon of walnut paste on it (thinly along the length or in a dollop at the wide end) and roll it up. You can also simply fold the slice in half, as many restaurants do.

6. Garnish and chill

Arrange the rolls on a platter, garnish with pomegranate seeds and coriander leaves, and refrigerate for 30–60 minutes so the flavours come together.

Tips for tasty badrijani

  • Salt the aubergines before frying to remove bitterness.
  • Don't overfry — slices should be soft and flexible but not falling apart.
  • Drain the oil well on paper towels.
  • Keep the paste thick, or the rolls will ooze.
  • Pomegranate is a must for freshness and looks.

Variations

  • With mayonnaise or sour cream. Some homes add a little mayonnaise to the walnut paste — a Soviet-era adaptation rather than the classic, but you'll see it.
  • With cheese. Sometimes a mix of sulguni, garlic and herbs replaces the walnuts.
  • With tomato. A slice of tomato and a little paste on each slice — a summer version.
  • Layered. Fried aubergine slices are layered with walnut paste instead of rolled.

What to serve with it

Badrijani is a starter, served at the start of a feast with pkhali, cheese, fresh vegetables and bread. It's ideal for a buffet — the rolls are easy finger food.

Wine: white wines such as rkatsiteli, mtsvane or kisi work well, as do light amber qvevri wines.

Where to try it in Georgia

Badrijani is on almost every Georgian restaurant menu, from cheap canteens to wine bars. The best time is summer and early autumn, when aubergines are local and in season. A portion is usually 4–6 rolls, and it's one of the most affordable starters.

Storage

The rolls keep 2 days in the fridge, tightly covered. The walnut paste can be made ahead and stored 3–4 days.

In short

Badrijani is fried aubergine slices rolled with spicy walnut paste and topped with pomegranate. Salt the aubergines before frying, drain the oil, and make a thick paste with garlic, coriander and utskho suneli. You'll get a beautiful, tasty starter that graces any table — Georgian or your own.