Khinkali are the dish many people travel to Georgia for, and the first thing most visitors order in any restaurant. They are large twisted dumplings with a juicy filling and hot broth inside. They look simple, but there is a technique to eating them — otherwise the broth ends up on your plate instead of in your mouth. Here is what kinds of khinkali exist, how to eat them properly and where to find the tastiest ones.
Where khinkali come from
Khinkali were born in the mountains of Georgia: Pshavi, Khevsureti, Mtiuleti and Tusheti. Highlanders made a filling, simple meal from dough, meat and water that suited the cold climate and long cattle drives. Over time khinkali came down from the mountains to Tbilisi and became a national dish that no feast goes without.
City and mountain khinkali still differ. In the mountains the filling is just meat, onion, salt, pepper and sometimes caraway. In the city — kalakuri khinkali — fresh herbs go into the mince: coriander, parsley, sometimes savory. So Tbilisi khinkali are more aromatic, while mountain ones are simpler and meatier.
Kinds of khinkali
- Meat khinkali. The classic: a mix of beef and pork, sometimes lamb. The most popular choice.
- Kalakuri. Tbilisi-style khinkali with herbs and spices.
- Mtiuluri, or mountain style. Only meat, onion and pepper, for those who like a clean taste.
- Cheese. Filled with sulguni or Imeretian cheese, sometimes mixed with cottage cheese. No broth, but rich and satisfying.
- Mushroom. A good option for vegetarians and on fasting days.
- Potato. Simple and cheap, often with fried onion.
- Fried khinkali. Boiled khinkali fried until crispy — for those who don't like soft dough.
How to eat khinkali
Georgians eat khinkali with their hands, and that is the main rule. A fork and knife pierce the dough and all the broth runs out.
- Pick the dumpling up by its "tail", the thick knot of dough on top.
- Turn it tail-up and hold it over the plate.
- Carefully bite a small piece of dough from the side.
- Sip the broth — it is very hot, so take your time.
- Eat the meat and dough, and leave the tail on your plate.
The tail, called kudi, is not eaten: it is thick, barely cooked dough. At the table people jokingly count the tails to see who ate the most. Before eating, khinkali are usually sprinkled with ground black pepper, which is served separately.
How many to order
Khinkali are sold by the piece, and they are big:
- a light eater — 3 to 5 pieces;
- a hungry traveller after a day of sightseeing — 6 to 8 pieces;
- if you also order khachapuri or salads, halve these numbers.
Many restaurants have a minimum order of five of one kind. In Tbilisi one khinkali usually costs 1.5 to 3 lari, more in tourist spots.
What to drink with khinkali
The classic pairing is cold Georgian beer. Many Georgians believe wine does not go with khinkali and choose beer or lemonade instead. Lagidze lemonades — tarragon, pear or cream — and Borjomi mineral water also work well.
If you want wine, choose a light red such as Saperavi or Ojaleshi, or a fresh white Rkatsiteli. Chacha with khinkali is for the brave, usually in the mountains.
Where to try the best khinkali
Pasanauri. This village on the Georgian Military Road is considered the capital of khinkali. They are made the mountain way here, and a lunch stop on the way to Kazbegi is a tradition for most travellers. Pasanauri khinkali are large, juicy and free of extra herbs.
Tbilisi. Every district has its khinkali houses, from simple places for locals to stylish restaurants in the Old Town. Tip: choose a place full of Georgian families, not only tourists — it is usually tastier and cheaper.
Kazbegi, Tusheti, Khevsureti. In mountain guesthouses khinkali are often folded by hand in front of you, and sometimes you can join a cooking class. It is a great way to see how hard it is to make the proper 18 to 20 pleats on each dumpling.
Kakheti. Khinkali go well with local wine, and many family wineries offer lunches with khinkali and mtsvadi after a tasting.
Cooking classes
Cooking classes in Tbilisi and the mountains teach you to make khinkali and khachapuri. A session usually lasts two to three hours and ends with a meal of what you made, with wine or chacha. A good choice for families and for rainy days.
Common tourist mistakes
- Cutting khinkali with a knife — the broth runs out.
- Eating the tail — it is raw and heavy.
- Ordering too many at once — khinkali cool down quickly and lose their charm. Order a second round instead.
- Rushing the first bite — the broth is very hot.
In short
Eat khinkali with your hands, start with the broth and leave the tail. Try mountain khinkali in Pasanauri on the way to Kazbegi and herby kalakuri in Tbilisi, order a cold beer or a lemonade, and you will understand why this dish became a symbol of Georgia.
