Mtskheta is a small town 20 km from Tbilisi where Christian Georgia began. It was the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Kartli; here, in the 4th century, Georgia adopted Christianity; and today it holds the country's holiest sites. The Historical Monuments of Mtskheta are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's an ideal half-day trip from Tbilisi and a must for first-time visitors.

A little history

Mtskheta was the capital of the Iberian (Kartli) kingdom for centuries until the capital moved to Tbilisi in the 5th–6th centuries. According to tradition, Saint Nino converted King Mirian and Queen Nana here, and early in the 4th century Christianity became the state religion. The town sits at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari (Kura) rivers, and the view of it from Jvari hill is one of Georgia's most famous panoramas.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Svetitskhoveli is Mtskheta's main cathedral and one of the most important churches in Georgia. The present building dates from the 11th century, on the site of earlier churches. The name means "the life-giving pillar".

Legend says Christ's robe is buried beneath it, brought from Jerusalem by Elioz, a Jew from Mtskheta. His sister Sidonia died clutching the robe and was buried with it. A cedar grew on the spot, later used for the pillar of the first church.

Inside, look for:

  • frescoes and paintings from different periods;
  • the burial places of Georgian kings;
  • a small chapel modelled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre;
  • old inscriptions and carvings on the façades.

The cathedral is surrounded by a fortress wall with a gate, and the grounds are lovely, especially in morning light.

Jvari Monastery

Jvari ("Cross") is a 6th-century monastery on a hilltop above Mtskheta. Tradition says Saint Nino raised a wooden cross here, later replaced by a stone church. Jvari is a model of early medieval Georgian architecture that influenced churches across the Caucasus.

The main reason to come up is the view: from the terrace you see the green Aragvi and the muddy Mtkvari merge below Mtskheta with mountains beyond. Lermontov described this landscape in his poem "Mtsyri".

Jvari is on the opposite bank, about 10 minutes' drive from central Mtskheta. Walking up is long and awkward, so most visitors take a taxi.

Samtavro Monastery

Samtavro is a working convent in central Mtskheta, where King Mirian and Queen Nana, Georgia's first Christian rulers, are buried. The grounds include a small church linked to Saint Nino and the grave of the revered elder Gabriel, visited by pilgrims from all over Georgia.

More to see

  • Bebristsikhe fortress — ruins of a medieval fortress on the edge of town.
  • The old streets around Svetitskhoveli, with souvenir shops, cafés and workshops.
  • Shiomgvime Monastery — 30 minutes' drive away in a rocky gorge, a great add-on for lovers of quiet places.

Getting there from Tbilisi

  • Minibus (marshrutka) from the bus station by Didube metro, about 30 minutes — the cheapest option.
  • Taxi via a ride-hailing app from central Tbilisi is inexpensive and takes 25–40 minutes depending on traffic. Book one that includes the stop at Jvari.
  • Tour. Mtskheta is often combined with Jvari and Ananuri or Kazbegi on day tours.
  • By car. An easy drive, with parking near the cathedral.

Dress code

Mtskheta is sacred for Georgians, and rules are observed:

  • women cover their heads and wear skirts below the knee; scarves and wrap-skirts are often provided at the entrance;
  • men wear long trousers and no hat inside churches;
  • everyone's shoulders should be covered;
  • speak quietly and ask before taking photos during services.

When to go

Mtskheta is open all year. Spring and autumn are best; summer afternoons are hot, so come in the morning. On 14 October Mtskheta celebrates Svetitskhovloba, the cathedral's feast day, with thousands of people, services and fairs — very atmospheric but crowded.

Where to eat

Plenty of restaurants with terraces surround the cathedral. Try lobiani, khachapuri and local wine; on hot days lemonade and ice cream are popular. Prices are slightly above Tbilisi but reasonable.

How much time

  • Svetitskhoveli and the centre — 1.5–2 hours;
  • Jvari — 45 minutes including the drive;
  • Samtavro — 30–40 minutes.

That's half a day; add Shiomgvime or a long lunch for a full day.

In short

Mtskheta is literally where Georgia began. Go up to Jvari for the best view of the confluence, stand inside Svetitskhoveli, visit Samtavro and have lunch on a terrace in the old town — all half an hour from Tbilisi.