Georgian food usually brings to mind khachapuri, khinkali and mtsvadi. But Georgians also have a whole tradition of soups: thick, spicy, sour, warming — and even "medicinal" after a big feast. Here are the main Georgian soups, where to try them and how to make one at home.
Kharcho
Kharcho is the best-known Georgian soup abroad, but the real thing is very different from the "kharcho soup" of Soviet canteens.
Classic kharcho is a thick beef soup with rice, walnuts, tklapi (sour plum leather) or tkemali, plenty of garlic and coriander, and spices — khmeli suneli, utskho suneli and ground coriander. The Megrelian version is hotter and nuttier.
Kharcho tastes rich, sour and spiced, with walnut depth — a cold-weather dish.
Chikhirtma
Chikhirtma is a delicate, fragrant chicken soup thickened with eggs beaten with vinegar (or lemon juice) and a little flour. The result is a silky broth with a gentle tang, onion and coriander.
Chikhirtma is considered a great remedy after a feast — hot, light and restorative.
Khashi
Khashi is a legendary dish eaten early in the morning, especially in winter and after a night out. It's a rich broth of beef feet and tripe, simmered for many hours.
How khashi is eaten:
- lots of crushed garlic thinned with broth is added to the bowl;
- salt to taste;
- lavash or shoti bread is torn in;
- traditionally it's sometimes accompanied by a shot of vodka or chacha.
Khashi has its own culture: some Tbilisi places serve it from dawn. Not every visitor will love it, but it's worth trying.
Matsoni soup
A summer soup based on matsoni (Georgian cultured milk) with rice or grains, onion and herbs — mint, coriander, dill. It's eaten hot or chilled; refreshing and light.
Shechamandi
Shechamandi is a traditional sour soup, often made from cornelian cherries, sour plums or other tart berries and herbs, sometimes with garlic and mint. It's simple village food, popular on fasting days. There are also versions based on matsoni and flour.
Bean soup (lobios supi)
A thick soup of red beans with onion, herbs and spices — close to lobio but thinner. Filling and cheap, especially on fasting days.
Other soups
- Bozbashi — lamb soup with chickpeas, potatoes and spices, popular in eastern Georgia.
- Chakapuli — strictly a stew rather than a soup (lamb or veal with tarragon, tkemali and white wine), served in a deep bowl with broth. A spring dish.
- Fish soups — on the coast and by mountain rivers.
Where to try them
- Traditional Tbilisi restaurants — kharcho, chikhirtma and chakapuli in season.
- Khashi houses — places that serve khashi from early morning.
- Roadside canteens — homemade soups at low prices.
- Guesthouses — hosts often make soup for dinner, especially in the mountains.
Chikhirtma recipe (4 servings)
Ingredients
- chicken (free-range if possible) — 1 kg;
- water — 2 litres;
- onions — 2–3;
- butter — 2 tbsp;
- flour — 1–2 tbsp;
- eggs — 3 (yolks or whole);
- wine vinegar — 2–3 tbsp (or lemon juice);
- coriander leaves — 1 bunch;
- ground coriander seed — 1/2 tsp;
- Imeretian saffron (marigold) — a pinch (optional);
- salt and pepper.
Method
- Make the broth. Cover the chicken with cold water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer gently for 1–1.5 hours. Season with salt. Remove the chicken and shred the meat.
- Fry the onion. Finely chop and soften in butter. Add the flour and cook 1–2 minutes more, stirring.
- Combine. Pour a little broth into the onion and flour, stir until smooth, then add to the pot of broth. Simmer 5–7 minutes.
- Add the spices — ground coriander, saffron, pepper — and the chicken.
- Make the liaison. Beat the eggs with the vinegar. Whisk a ladle of hot broth into the eggs, stirring constantly so they don't curdle.
- Thicken the soup. Take the pot off the heat and pour in the egg mixture in a thin stream, stirring vigorously. Don't boil afterwards, or the eggs will scramble.
- Add the coriander, leave for 5 minutes and serve.
Tip: serve with hot shoti bread.
Secrets of Georgian soups
- Spices — khmeli suneli, utskho suneli and ground coriander give the Georgian character.
- Acidity — tklapi, tkemali, vinegar or pomegranate juice is key to the flavour.
- Plenty of herbs, especially coriander.
- Garlic — used generously in kharcho and khashi.
In short
Georgian soups range from thick, sour-spicy kharcho with walnuts to delicate chikhirtma thickened with egg and vinegar, legendary morning khashi with garlic, refreshing matsoni soup and sour shechamandi. Try them in Tbilisi restaurants and khashi houses, and make chikhirtma at home — a simple, very Georgian soup for a cold day.
