Mtsvadi is what Georgians call shashlik, or skewered barbecue. But Georgian mtsvadi differs noticeably from what many people think of as shashlik: the meat is barely marinated, grilled in large chunks over grapevine embers and served with thinly sliced onion, pomegranate and tkemali sauce. It's the dish of weekends, picnics and village celebrations. Here's how to make it the Georgian way.

The key difference

Georgians believe good meat doesn't need hiding behind a marinade. Vinegar, mayonnaise, kefir and heaps of spices aren't part of mtsvadi. The flavour comes from:

  • fresh, quality meat (preferably not frozen);
  • grapevine embers (bazili) — they burn hot and give a delicate fruity smoke;
  • proper grilling — fast and hot, so the meat stays juicy;
  • serving — onion, pomegranate, herbs and tkemali.

Which meat to choose

  • Pork — the most popular choice in Georgia. Neck or loin with some fat marbling is best.
  • Veal — tenderloin or tender cuts from the hind leg.
  • Lamb — popular in mountain areas; loin or leg meat.
  • Chicken — boneless thighs.

Cut large: 4–5 cm chunks. Small pieces dry out.

Ingredients (4–6 servings)

  • pork neck (or other meat) — 2 kg;
  • onions — 3–4 (half for the meat, half for serving);
  • coarse salt;
  • ground black pepper — optional;
  • pomegranate — 1 (for serving and optionally the marinade);
  • coriander, basil, spring onions — for serving;
  • tkemali sauce — for serving;
  • lavash or shoti bread.

Preparing the meat

Option 1. Classic, no marinade

Cut the meat, salt and pepper it just before grilling or 15–30 minutes ahead. That's enough for fresh, good meat.

Option 2. With onion

Slice 1–2 onions into rings, squeeze lightly by hand to release juice, and mix with the meat. Leave 2–4 hours somewhere cool. Salt at the end, before grilling — salt draws out juices.

Option 3. With pomegranate juice

For veal or lamb, add a little pomegranate juice to the onion. It slightly tenderises the meat and adds tang.

The embers

The ideal fuel is dry grapevine cuttings from vineyard pruning. In Kakheti they're gathered in spring and dried. Vines burn quickly and leave hot, aromatic embers.

Without vines, use fruitwood embers (apple, cherry) or good lump charcoal. Never grill over open flames — only embers covered with white ash.

How to grill

  1. Thread the meat onto skewers snugly but not jammed — heat must pass between pieces.
  2. Embers should be hot but flameless. Hold your palm at skewer height: if you can stand it for 3–4 seconds, the heat is right.
  3. Lay the skewers on the grill and turn often — every 1–2 minutes at first so the meat seals on all sides.
  4. If dripping fat flares up, sprinkle the embers with water or wine — Georgians often use dry white wine.
  5. Pork is done in 15–20 minutes, veal in 12–15, chicken in 15–20. Check with a cut: juices should run clear.

Serving

Serving mtsvadi is an art in itself:

  • Slide the meat off the skewers onto a large platter.
  • Top with thinly sliced onion rings (optionally splashed with vinegar or pomegranate juice).
  • Scatter pomegranate seeds.
  • Add fresh herbs — coriander, basil, tarragon, spring onion.
  • Put tkemali, red or green, alongside.
  • Serve with lavash or shoti. The meat is often covered with lavash to keep it warm.

What else goes on the grill

Alongside mtsvadi, Georgians grill:

  • vegetables — aubergines, tomatoes, peppers (later made into a salad);
  • potatoes — whole in the ashes or on skewers;
  • sulguni cheese on skewers;
  • mushrooms, especially in spring — mushrooms in a ketsi with cheese.

Wine with mtsvadi

  • Saperavi — the classic with pork and lamb.
  • Mukuzani — a fuller, aged saperavi.
  • Kakhetian amber wine (qvevri rkatsiteli) — excellent with fatty pork.
  • Light red — with chicken.

If you're drinking chacha, have one or two after the first bite, with a toast.

Mtsvadi on the road

Mtsvadi is the star of Georgian picnics. At weekends families grill by rivers and reservoirs such as Zhinvali or the Tbilisi Sea. Many roadside restaurants, especially along the Georgian Military Road and in Kakheti, grill mtsvadi on open mangals right in front of you.

In restaurants look for "mtsvadi" with pork or veal; prices are often per kilo or per portion.

Tips for juicy mtsvadi

  • Fresh meat with some fat.
  • Large chunks.
  • Salt before grilling, not overnight.
  • Embers only, no flames.
  • Turn often.
  • Don't overcook — take it off when the juices run clear.

In short

Mtsvadi is Georgian barbecue without complicated marinades: fresh meat in big chunks, salt, grapevine embers and quick grilling. It's served with onion, pomegranate, herbs and tkemali, and washed down with saperavi. Try it the Georgian way and you'll see that the best seasoning for good meat is the right fire.