An hour west of Tbilisi lies the region of Shida Kartli, with several sights that combine neatly into one packed trip. The rock-cut town of Uplistsikhe is one of the oldest towns in Georgia, carved straight into the cliff. Nearby is Gori, with its fortress and the controversial but fascinating Stalin Museum. And in a gorge to the south hides the church of Ateni Sioni with 11th-century frescoes. You can see it all in a day.

Uplistsikhe — a town in the rock

Uplistsikhe means "Lord's fortress". It is a rock-hewn town on a high bank of the Mtkvari (Kura) river, about 10 km from Gori. People lived here from the early Iron Age, and the town flourished before Christianity, when pagan temples stood here. Later it became an important stop on trade routes, and in the Middle Ages it gradually emptied.

What to see:

  • The main street — a road cut into the rock leading up to the centre.
  • Halls and dwellings with carved ceilings imitating wooden beams, niches and columns.
  • The so-called Hall of Queen Tamar — one of the largest and most beautiful.
  • The "theatre" — a room with semicircular steps.
  • A pharmacy, wine cellars and ovens that show how people lived.
  • Uplistsuli church — a 9th–10th-century Christian basilica at the very top with a great view.
  • The secret tunnel leading from the town to the river, used to fetch water during sieges.

Tips:

  • There is a lot of slippery rock and steps — wear shoes with good grip.
  • Summer is very hot with little shade; come in the morning and bring water.
  • Allow 1.5–2 hours.
  • Tickets are sold at the entrance, where you can also get an audio guide or hire a guide.

Gori

Gori, the capital of Shida Kartli, has a long history, but most visitors know it as Joseph Stalin's birthplace.

The Stalin Museum

The museum occupies a large building in the centre, with personal belongings, photographs, gifts and documents. Under a stone pavilion nearby stands the small house where Stalin was born, along with his armoured railway carriage, used to travel to conferences.

Bear in mind that the exhibition largely keeps a Soviet perspective and says little about the repressions. Many visitors see it as evidence of how power was portrayed in the USSR. Attitudes to Stalin in Georgia are mixed, so keep that in mind when talking with locals.

Gori Fortress

Goristsikhe stands on a hill in the centre with a panorama of Gori and the mountains. The climb is short and entry free. At the foot of the hill is a memorial to those killed in the 2008 war.

Ateni Sioni

10–12 km south of Gori, in the picturesque Tana river gorge, stands Ateni Sioni. Built in the 7th century, it is considered a masterpiece of early medieval Georgian architecture, and inside are 11th-century frescoes, among the finest in Georgia.

The Ateni gorge is also known for wine, with light whites — including sparkling — from local grapes. In summer and autumn the orchards, vineyards and river make it beautiful.

Getting there

  • Train from Tbilisi to Gori — about an hour, several services a day heading west.
  • Minibus from Didube metro — about an hour, frequent.
  • Taxi to Uplistsikhe — from Gori, hire a taxi there and back with waiting time; agree the price first.
  • Tour or driver for the day — easiest for combining Uplistsikhe, Gori and Ateni.
  • By car — on the good Tbilisi–Kutaisi highway.

Sample itinerary

  1. 9:00 — leave Tbilisi.
  2. 10:15 — Uplistsikhe, 1.5–2 hours.
  3. 12:30 — lunch in Gori.
  4. 13:30 — Stalin Museum and fortress.
  5. 15:30 — Ateni Sioni.
  6. 17:30 — back in Tbilisi.

Where to eat

Gori has several Georgian restaurants, and there is a small café at Uplistsikhe. Try local bread, cheese and Ateni wine. In season, roadside stalls sell fruit — Shida Kartli is famous for apples and peaches.

When to go

Spring and autumn are best — not too hot, with green or golden views. In summer visit Uplistsikhe in the morning. Winter can be cold and windy, but there are almost no tourists.

In short

In one day you can walk the streets of a three-thousand-year-old town carved in rock, see Stalin's carriage and admire medieval frescoes in a quiet gorge. For history lovers it's one of the richest day trips from Tbilisi.